12 Volt Residential 4" x 8" Paver Lights  

• Actual size = 3 15/16" Wide  x 7 7/8" High x 2 3/8" Deep
  Light comes with a 4-watt bulb
• These 4 x 8 inch Paver lights are designed for easy installation as a replacement for any standard 4 x 8 inch brick paver (60 mil) 
• Now you can add beauty, safety & value to your home or business's outdoor landscape lighting needs.
• The 12 volt system is safe and economical to operate and does not require a licensed electrician for installation. The bulbs, while easy for adults to change, are not accessible to children.
• The warm color appearance of the incandescent lamp included with each fixture is appealing since it’s similar to candlelight or the illumination of a kerosene lamp.
• Kerr Lights can be set into asphalt & poured concrete with some special preparations. (See Info Below or call TJB-INC for details @203-287-0636)
• Perfect for outdoor low voltage lighting needs for any brick deck, walkway or patio that can utilize any standard 4" x 8" brick in its construction or design.
• You can walk & drive on these lights quite safely.
• The light fixture is designed to drain the water away.
• One of the strongest & most durable ground & surface installed lighting fixtures available today. (Yes! you can drive over & park on them!)
• They also come with a 2 year manufacturer warrantee.
• TJB-INC has had them installed in our ourdoor displays and driveways since 1995 with no problems except changing the light bulbs every 4-6 years.  Our display lights are on every night for 10 hrs after sundown.
• PaverLight Fixtures are 2 3/8" (60 mil) thick to match with most interlocking pavers made in the USA & Canada.
• Easy DIY Installation Instructions are included with each order. Replacement parts are always available & in-stock (if ever needed)
• TJB-INC supplies free technical help by calling 203-287-0636 or E-Mail : tjb@TJB-INC.com.

 To View Installation Instructions "CLICK HERE". 

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 A trick that we use at TJB-INC, is to place a white napkin on top of the pavers where you think a light should go.  (You may need to use tape or a rock to keep the napkin from blowing away.)   Then stand back and see how it looks.  It is much easier to move napkins that it is to move light fixtures.  Adjust as you feel necessary until you find a lay-out that you like.  Then you will know how many lights you will need to order and install to complete your project.

Available Quantities:

• Individually includes: (1) Light Fixture & Lens, (1) Socket, (1) 4-watt bulb, & (2) Wire Connectors
• 8-Pack Installation Kit includes: (8) Light Fixtures & Lenses. (8) Sockets. (8) 4-watt bulbs, (16) Wire Cnnectors, 50' of 16/2 outdoor cable, (1) 100-Watt Transformer with Photocell & Digital Timer, and Instructions.  14-Pack Installation Kit includes: (14) Light Fixtures & Lenses. (14) Sockets. (14) 4-watt bulbs, (28) Wire Connectors, 100' of 16/2 outdoor cable, (1) 100-Watt Transformer with Photocell & Digital Timer, and Instructions. 
• NOTE: With the 2 Installation Kits, the supplied 12-volt dust-to-dawn transformer can power up to (25) 4-watt fixtures for the 100-watt  .  Add-on lights are supplied with (1) light with lens, socket, bulb and (2) connectors. (Additional cable may be necessary depending on number and spacing of lights).
• If you are going to be installing a long run of wire with extra fixtures, you can substitute the 100' of 16/2 wire for the thicker 12/2 wire for an additional $22.60
• Tools Required For Installation: Pliers, Utility Knife, & Regular Screwdriver.

PHOTO SAMPLE SOME INSTALLATIONS

TJB-INC INSTALLATION TIP

1. When installing these lights in wet or saltwater installations, use a "Di-Electric Silicone" (available at local autopart or marine supply stores) or Vaseline on all electrical connections.  IE:  Remove the bulb from the socket, apply the Di-Electric Silicone on the base and re-install the light bulb into the socket.  This will prevent the minerals and salts from coroding the electrical connections.  You can also use this method on all of your wire connection to assist in the prevention of corosion over the years. 
2. Use the "L" shaped (included) hold down tabs to secure the fixtures to the ground.  You simply lift the adjacent pavers on the left & right of the lamp fixture.  Turn the fixture over, then push the hold down tabs into the bottom of the light so there is a tab to the left and right of the fixture which will extend under the adjacent pavers. (see photo below)  This will make it so your lamp fixture will not raise above the height of your pavers so there will be no tripping hazard, frost heaving, and a great deterant to theft.

Installation In Concrete/Stamped Concrete

Any of our 5 sided base lights, 4" x 8" (Residential & Commercial), 4.5" x 7" CASINO, & our 4.5" x 9" BC lights, can be installed into concrete.  I will try to explain some of the techniques that we have used for our installation of these paver lights into concrete surfaces.

1. Always pre-wire and test your lights before you set them in concrete.  I like to run my wires in conduit so if there is ever a problem with the wires, I can go back and pull new wire or repair the problem.  If you are running conduit, you will have to make sure it is installed below the concrete so that any relief cuts that are made do not cut through the conduit and cut your wire.  I run my conduit to the outside edge of the concrete.  This eliminates most of the wire breakage problems acssociated with saw cutting of the concrete in colder climates.  You can drill a hole in the side of the light fixture's base and connect the conduit directly to the light.  I like using flexible conduit so that I can raise or lower the fixture during the installation process.  With rigid pipe, you have to be exact with your height placement and there is no room for error.
2. The light fixtures come with special hold-down tabs (see photo above).  I install these into the bottom of the lights so that when the base is set into the mortar, the tabs become imbedded into the concrete preventing the light fixture from rising up or down.
3. After the wiring and tabs are installed, then wrap the light fixture in plastic wrap (IE: Saran Wrap, Clear Wrap, Stretch-Tight, etc.).  This prevents the concrete from getting inside of the fixture and from staining it.  After the concrete has dried, you can cut away most of the exposed plastic wrap.  Any remaining plastic wrap can be quickly melted away with any hand-held heat source (IE: Plumber's Torch, Heat Gun, Hair Drier, etc.).
4. Well, there are my 3 basic tips that have worked well for our installation crew.  If you are doing stamped concrete, a little extra care is needed when pressing down the form molds so as not to press the light fixture too deep into the concrete.  A ¼" recess of the fixture is ok if you can still remove the lens with a screwdrive for maintenance in the future.
5. Good Luck with your project and don't forget to send me photos that I can share with others!

Average Rating: (From 8 Reviews):

1/19/2012 -- do you have colored bulbs? do they cost more then reguler ones.

11/10/2011 -- I have paver light covers that need to be replaced and are not quite 4x8. they are a little more like 3.75 by 7x75. is the . . .

10/1/2011 -- HI, I just installed the 8 paver system. Only the last 2 lights in the series are working. What could be the problem? Thanks! Geoff . . .

9/11/2010 -- We have a 12 year old set of Kerr Paver Lights in our driveway that we installed and we need replacement parts. Are the 4" . . .

8/17/2009 -- Hi, I intend to use 14-light residential kit. I have a long wire run and may want to upgrade the transformer from 88w to . . .