Low-Voltage 12-Volt Transformers With Photo Cell 

We Sell Several Different Name Brands

• Old style mechanical dial timer has been replaced by more reliable photocell.
• Set desired on time in 2, 4, 6, 8, or 10 hour intervals after sunset, Dawn to Dusk, or controled by a switched outlet.
• No need to adjust for time changes, or seasonal changes of sunset.
• Does not need to be adjusted to reset after power outages or daylight savings.
• UL listed for outdoor installations and mounting
• Hampton Bay 45, 120, 200, 300-watt with remote photocell
• Moonrays 120 (limited supply) Built in Photocell
• TDC 100, 300 (Multi-Tap) Built in Photocell
• Not Class II rated for Submersible Luminaries (Except ADI 60-Watt Transformer)
• Not for use with dimmer circuits.
• 2-Year Warranty

Several Sizes & Style Available:

• Hampton Bay 45-Watt (7½" H x 4¾" W x 3" D) with 5' Remote Photocell
• ADI 60-Watt (7" L x 3 1/2" H x 3 1/2" W) Built-in Photocell  (CLASS II)
• TDC 100-Watt (6 ½" L x  4 ¼" W x 3½" H) Built-in Photocell  (Used in most of our pre-made lighting kits)
• Hampton Bay 120-Watt (9" H x 5½" W x 3" D) with 5' Remote Photocell
• Moonrays 120-Watt (6" H x 4" W x 3½" D) Built-in Photocell
• Hampton Bay 200-Watt (8 3/8" H x 5" W x 4 1/8" D) with 5' Remote Photocell
• Portfolio 200-Watt (6 7/8" H x 4 ½" W x 4¼" D) Built-in Photocell
• Hampton Bay 300-Watt (9 ½" H x 5¾" W x 3¼" D) with 5' Remote Photocell
• TDC 300-Watt Multi-Tap (10 ½" H x 5" W x 5" D) Built-in Photocell, Stainless Steel Housing 12V, 13V, 14V, 15V Outputs.  (This the recommended transformer for long wire runs and large light fixture installations)

Low-voltage, systems have several advantages for the home owner:  Most important, low-voltage equipment is easier to install.  Except for the transformer that's connected to a 120-volt circuit, the entire system runs on harmless 12-volt current. Low-voltage wiring is lightweight and can be laid on the ground or buried just below the surface.   Another advantage of low-voltage equipment is that it can be relatively inexpensive. And, when you do the job yourself, the bottom line for low-voltage looks even better. Not only can the capital outlay for a standard high-voltage system be much greater, but you may need to hire a pro for part or all of the installation.

You must size your low voltage transformer to match the combined wattage of the lights or lamps to which the transformer is to supply power plus approximately 25% more for the line.   

Sizing your Transformer Example:  If you buy a system that comes with six fixtures and each fixture has a 12 watt lamp, then you have a minimum need of 72 watts  (12 x 6 = 72).   The line itself degrades the wattage as well so as a general rule of thumb you will need to increase it by 25% more.     Therefore you'll need at least a transformer that can handle about 90 watts.    So a 100 watt transformer would be the minimum needed.   If you plan to add additional fixtures in the future, you may want to increase the  wattage of the transformer or purchase additional transformers as needed.   Keep in mind that the voltage drop over long distances is more pronounced in a low-voltage system, therefore, using wire that's too light (skinny) can affect the output at the lamps and this may adjust the wattage need of your low voltage transformer.

TJB-INC INSTALLATION TIPS

• When running low voltage wire, try to keep the length of the wire run from the transformer to the lights less than 100' and put no more than 100 watts of draw per run.  If your lights look dim and yellow or orange, this is a sign that they are not getting enough power.  It could be you overloaded the wire run with too many light fixtures, the wire size could be too small, and/or the transformer is being over-worked because it is too small for the amount of lights it is powering.  You could also try using bulbs with less wattage and see if that helps first.  If not, then you will need to redesign your layout with larger guage wire and larger transformers.  If you have multible runs of wire, choose a transformer that has multible power taps.  Use the HI setting for the long runs, and the LO setting for the shorter runs.  This should help with the power loss you were experiencing. 
• At TJB-INC, anytime we are doing an installation with a moderate to long run of wire, we use the 12/2 gauge wire to be safe.  If we are just going around a small to medium pond, we will use the 16/2 wire as long as the wattage draw from the bulbs does not go over 100 watts.