Avalable sizes are:

• Individual Lights
• Box of 10 Lights
• Box of 18 Lights
• 8-Pack Installation Kit includes: (8) 4 1/4" x 8 7/8" 12-volt outdoor light fixtures (bases and lenses); (8) 7-watt lamps; (8) socket receptacles; (16) wire connectors; (1) 100-watt transformer with Photocell & Digital Timer; 50' 16/2 low voltage outdoor cable.
• 14-Pack Installation Kit includes: (14) 4 1/4" x 8 7/8" 12-volt outdoor light fixtures (bases and lenses); (14) 7-watt lamps; (14) socket receptacles; (28) wire connectors; (1) 100-watt transformer with Photocell & Digital Timer; 100' 16/2 low voltage outdoor cable.

TJB-INC INSTALLATION TIP

1. When installing these lights in wet or saltwater installations, use a "Di-Electric Silicone" (available at local autopart or marine supply stores) or Vaseline on all electrical connections.  IE:  Remove the bulb from the socket, apply the Di-Electric Silicone on the base and re-install the light bulb into the socket.  This will prevent the minerals and salts from coroding the electrical connections.  You can also use this method on all of your wire connections to assist in the prevention of corosion over the years. 
2. Use the "L" shaped (included) hold down tabs to secure the fixtures to the ground.  You simply lift the adjacent pavers on the left & right of the lamp fixture.  Turn the fixture over, then push the hold down tabs into the bottom of the light so there is a tab to the left and right of the fixture which will extend under the adjacent pavers. (see photo below)  This will make it so your lamp fixture will not raise above the height of your pavers so there will be no tripping hazard, frost heaving, and a great deterant to theft.

Installation In Concrete/Stamped Concrete

Any of our 5 sided base lights, 4" x 8" (Residential & Commercial), 4.5" x 7" CASINO, & our 4.5" x 9" BC lights, can be installed into concrete.  I will try to explain some of the techniques that we have used for our installation of these paver lights into concrete surfaces.

1. Always pre-wire and test your lights before you set them in concrete.  I like to run my wires in conduit so if there is ever a problem with the wires, I can go back and pull new wire or repair the problem.  If you are running conduit, you will have to make sure it is installed below the concrete so that any relief cuts that are made do not cut through the conduit and cut your wire.  I like to run my conduit to the outside edge of the concrete.  This eliminates most of the wire breakage problems acssociated with saw cutting of the concrete in colder climates.  You can drill a hole in the side of the light fixture's base and connect the conduit directly to the light.  I like using flexible conduit so that I can raise or lower the fixture during the installation process.  Whith rigid pipe, you have to be exact with your height placement and there is no room for error.
2. The light fixtures come with special hold-down tabs (see photo above).  I install these into the bottom of the lights so that when the base is set into the mortar, the tabs become imbedded into the concrete preventing the light fixture from rising up or down.
3. After the wiring and tabs are installed, then wrap the light fixture in plastic wrap (IE: Saran Wrap, Clear Wrap, Stretch-Tight, etc.).  This prevents the concrete from getting inside of the fixture and from staining it.  After the concrete has dried, you can cut away most of the exposed plastic wrap.  Any remaining plastic wrap can be quickly melted away with any hand-held heat source (IE: Plumber's Torch, Heat Gun, Hair Drier, etc.).
4. Well, there are my 3 basic tips that have worked well for our installation crew.  If you are doing stamped concrete, a little extra care is needed when pressing down the form molds so as not to press the light fixture too deep into the concrete.  A ¼" recess of the fixture is ok if you can still remove the lens with a screwdrive for maintenance in the future