Kerr Lighting CASINO Paver Light - 4 1/2" x 7" for Walk, Patio, Driveway, & Pool Deck Installation

12 Volt Casino - 4 1/2" x 7"

• Actual size = 4⁵/8" x 7¼"
• Light comes with a 7-watt bulb
• Use in Walkways, Patios, Driveways & Pool Decks
• Kerr Lights can be set into asphalt & poured concrete with some special preparations.  (Call TJB-INC for details @203-287-0636)
• Our Paver Lights come in several different configurations for commercial interlock applications as well as asphalt and stamped concrete.
• These lights are designed with extra ribbing, thicker and stronger lenses to withstand the day-to-day higher traffic in commercial applications.
• Each light comes with hold-tight tabs to secure the fixture to adjacent paver bricks.
• These lights are very suitable for residential applications as well.
• The lights are sold individually, in bulk contractor packaging, and complete do-it-yourself kits complete with lights, connectors, low voltage wire, & proper low voltage 12 volt transformer.
• Kerr Lights are safe and economical.
• One of the strongest & most durable ground & surface installed lighting fixtures available today.   (Yes! you can drive over & park on them!) 
• The 12 volt system is safe and economical to operate and does not require a licensed electrician for installation. The bulbs, while easy for adults to change, are not accessible to children.
• The warm color appearance of the incandescent lamp included with each fixture is appealing since it’s similar to candlelight or the illumination of a kerosene lamp.
• They also come with a 2 year manufacturer warrantee.
• PaverLight Fixtures are 2 3/8" thick to match with most interlocking pavers made in the USA & Canada.
• Easy DIY Installation Instructions are included with each order.
• LED Bulbs with 5-year warranty now available for these lights (see Related Products below)
•  Replacement parts are always available & in-stock (if ever needed)
• TJB-INC supplies free technical help by calling 203-287-0636 or E-Mail : tjb@TJB-INC.com.

To View Installation Instructions "CLICK HERE". 

 A trick that we use at TJB-INC, is to place a white napkin on top of the pavers where you think a light should go.  (You may need to use tape or a rock to keep the napkin from blowing away.)   Then stand back and see how it looks.  It is much easier to move napkins that it is to move light fixtures.  Adjust as you feel necessary until you find a lay-out that you like.  Then you will know how many lights you will need to order and install to complete your project.

Avalaible sizes are:

TJB-INC INSTALLATION TIP

1. When installing these lights in wet or saltwater installations, use a "Di-Electric Silicone" (available at local autopart or marine supply stores) or Vaseline on all electrical connections.  IE:  Remove the bulb from the socket, apply the Di-Electric Silicone on the base and re-install the light bulb into the socket.  This will prevent the minerals and salts from coroding the electrical connections.  You can also use this method on all of your wire connections to assist in the prevention of corosion over the years. 
2. Use the "L" shaped (included) hold down tabs to secure the fixtures to the ground.  You simply lift the adjacent pavers on the left & right of the lamp fixture.  Turn the fixture over, then push the hold down tabs into the bottom of the light so there is a tab to the left and right of the fixture which will extend under the adjacent pavers. (see photo below)  This will make it so your lamp fixture will not raise above the height of your pavers so there will be no tripping hazard, frost heaving, and a great deterant to theft.

Installation In Concrete/Stamped Concrete

Any of our 5 sided base lights, 4" x 8" (Residential & Commercial), 4.5" x 7" CASINO, & our 4.5" x 9" BC lights, can be installed into concrete.  I will try to explain some of the techniques that we have used for our installation of these paver lights into concrete surfaces.

1. Always pre-wire and test your lights before you set them in concrete.  I like to run my wires in conduit so if there is ever a problem with the wires, I can go back and pull new wire or repair the problem.  If you are running conduit, you will have to make sure it is installed below the concrete so that any relief cuts that are made do not cut through the conduit and cut your wire.  I like to run my conduit to the outside edge of the concrete.  This eliminates most of the wire breakage problems acssociated with saw cutting of the concrete in colder climates.  You can drill a hole in the side of the light fixture's base and connect the conduit directly to the light.  I like using flexible conduit so that I can raise or lower the fixture during the installation process.  Whith rigid pipe, you have to be exact with your height placement and there is no room for error.
2. The light fixtures come with special hold-down tabs (see photo above).  I install these into the bottom of the lights so that when the base is set into the mortar, the tabs become imbedded into the concrete preventing the light fixture from rising up or down.
3. After the wiring and tabs are installed, then wrap the light fixture in plastic wrap (IE: Saran Wrap, Clear Wrap, Stretch-Tight, etc.).  This prevents the concrete from getting inside of the fixture and from staining it.  After the concrete has dried, you can cut away most of the exposed plastic wrap.  Any remaining plastic wrap can be quickly melted away with any hand-held heat source (IE: Plumber's Torch, Heat Gun, Hair Drier, etc.).
4. Well, there are my 3 basic tips that have worked well for our installation crew.  If you are doing stamped concrete, a little extra care is needed when pressing down the form molds so as not to press the light fixture too deep into the concrete.  A ¼" recess of the fixture is ok if you can still remove the lens with a screwdrive for maintenance in the future