Replacement - 12 volt WARM LED Module for Wall Eye Lights

These Warm LED modules are a direct replacement for the LED unit on any Wall Eye ll Light. The LED module can also be used in many other applications where a low wattage draw fixture is needed to proved light using a 12 volt (AC or DC) power source.

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Price: $15.99

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SKU: Warm LED Module

Shipping Weight: 0.35 lb.

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Summary

WALL EYE ll - REPLACEMENT LED Module- WARM

These LED modules are a direct replacement for the LED unit on any Wall Eye ll Light. The LED module can also be used in many other applications where a low wattage draw fixture is needed to proved light using a 12 volt (AC or DC) power source.

Long Lasting LED's - No more burned out bulbs to replace
Economical - 40,000 Hour Life (almost 14 years @8 hrs lit per day)
Low Power - 2 Watts per unit (2) 1-watt Phillips CMD LED's
Weather Resistant - Sealed & Rustproof, ideal for Outdoor Use
Safe - Cool to the touch ... Low Burn Risk
Long Wire - 72" (182 cm) Lead with UL/18-2 SPT Low Voltage Cable (UL Rated) & 3/8" (1 cm) Stripped and tinned (soldered) for easy connections to power feed cable. Will fit through a ¼" hole.
Veratility - Use with Steps, Walls, Columns or Counter Tops.
Connects to any 12 Volt AC or DC Transformer
Can be retrofitted or installed lower in the wall as well. (See New Design below)
Each Phillips LED Module has (2) 1-Watt flat CMD's (Latest Technology) COOL White LEDs producing 27 lumens @3000 Kelvin with a built in driver/rectifier.
Optimum Voltage is 12 v AC/DC but will operate in a range voltage from 8-12.5 v AC/DC
The weather sealed LED Module is secured by two 3mm x 10mm stainless steel studs with two stainless steel nuts which are included.
Can be used with the original Wall Eye lights (from "Frog Lights LLC"). This new LED Module is a little longer and half the height of the original modules.
Can be used in near fresh & salt water applications

We sell the replacement LED Module in 5 different ways.

LED Module individually with no connectors
LED Module individually with (2) Red Heatshrink waterproof Butt Connectors for use in applications where the original electricial connections are not accessible. For use with 16 & 18 gauge feed wire.
LED Module individually with (2) 3M Silicone filled Connectors for applications where there is easy access to the original electricial connections and new conectors are needed. Use with 14-18 gauge feed wire.
LED Module individually with (2) 3M Scotchlok Insulated Blue Saddle Tap Connectors for applications where there is easy access to the original electricial connections and new conectors are needed. Used for 16 gauge feed wire.
LED Module individually with (2) 3M Scotchlok Non-Insulated Brown Saddle Tap Connectors for applications where there is easy access to the original electricial connections and new conectors are needed. Used for 12 gauge feed wire only.

We now offer a 45-Watt Malibu transformer with a 5' remote photocell (6½"H x 4"W x 3"D) that will power up to (82) Wall Eye lights that we can include in to your order along with a roll of 100" of 16/2 Low-Voltage Cable if you choose. The transformer can set desired turn-on time in 2, 4, 6, 8, or 10 hour intervals after sunset, Dawn to Dusk, or controled by a switched outlet. Add on prices include shipping except to international locations. CLICK HERE

To calculate shipping costs: Add a product to the shopping cart. An orange colored "Calculate Shipping" tab will now show up on the right side of your screen in the blue area in the shopping cart section. Click on this "Calculate Shipping" and enter your zip code. Hit "Submit", and your shipping options & delivery times will now be displayed. If there is a choice, pick the option that best fits your needs.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Do not cut wires yet. Most original LED units will be screwed into the housing with (2) small stainless steel machine screws. Remove the exsisting LED unit from the Wall Eye fixture by removing the (2) screws. Install the replacement LED unit by remounting with the (2) screws. If you have an older Wall Eye unit that did not use screws, then use a knife or screwdriver to pry the old LED unit free from the housing. Make note which side the power wires went. To install a new LED unit, turn the LED unit over so the bottom flat side is facing up. Apply a bead of 1 inch bead of silicone (Window & Door or Kitchen & Bath) to the back of the LED unit. (Like putting toothpaste on a toothbrush.) Now grab the LED unit by the sides and press the bottom with the silicone on to the housing making sure the power wires are going the same way as the original ones did. Use a piece of tape to hold the LED unit in place while the silicone dries (approx 5 hrs).

To make the electrical connections, you have several options.

Lift up the coping or cap to expose the original connection from the LED light to the power cable. Remove the original electrical connectors if possible and remove old LED's wires. Then install the wires from the replacement LED unit into the same connections. Test light before replacing coping or cap.
If the coping or cap is cemented or glued down tight, gently pull on the wires that go into the stone to see if you can pull any extra wire out. Then cut the wires about 3" from the stone. Strip off 3/8" of insulation from the end of the wire. Insert this copper end into the end of one of the RED Butt Connectors. Use a crimper wrench to tightly crimp the wire into the butt connector. (See video Below). Take one of the leads from the Replacement LED unit and cut it to fit leaving 6" of extra length. Remove 3/8" of insullation off this wire as well and then stick it into the open end of the butt connector. Crimp tighly like before securing the wire. Gently pull on the wires to make sure they are secured tightly into the connector. If not, you will have to repeat the process untill you get the connections tight. Using a heatgun, hair dryer, or other heat source, melt the ends of the butt connector so they seal the connections from air and water. Repeat this whole process for the remaining 2 wires. Then, using your fingers, push the extra wire back into the hole in the stone where the original wires came out. Try to get the new butt connectors into the hole so they can not be seen
If you own a soldering iron, you can solder the electrical connections instead of using butt connectors. I would recommend using shrink tubing to cover the soldered connection to prevent oxidation of the wires over time.

CUSTOMER REVIEWS (2)

Average Rating: (From 2 Reviews):

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Highly recommended
From dt of Grand Junction, Colorado on 11/28/2023.

Awesome replacements
From Ryan Marton of White Oak, Pennsylvania on 6/27/2020.

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CUSTOMER QUESTIONS (23)

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2/4/2014 – What is the maximum number of lights you can put on one transformer? How many lights could a 300w transformer handle.
Thanks . . .

4/28/2013 – I installed 15 of these lights in 5 planters and a water feature (not wet) I built last summer. They are set to turn on . . .

4/10/2013 – is there installation manual?
I noticed that both cords are black, is there positive and negative end? Or it does not matter? . . .

3/22/2013 – I want to install 5 wall eye lights on a wall which will be capped by granite for an outdoor kitchen.Can I use my malibu . . .

10/11/2012 – I need 6 of this lights. Which of your transformers would be the best to work with it?

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