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Flush Mount Professional Raccoon/Rabbit/Cat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap w/ 1/2" x 1"

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 19:02:00 GMT

Flush Mount Professional Raccoon/Rabbit/Cat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap w/ 1/2" x 1"
Buy Now: $126.00

Flush Mount Raccoon, Rabbit, Badger, Ground Hog, Wood Chuck & Cat Live ProTrap

Model 608.2SS is a professional flush mount live trap with an easy release door for raccoons, feral cats, armadillos and similar size animals. It works great for animals that burrow into trees and buildings. The recessed door enables you to set the trap flush against trees, building and walls. The critter must enter the trap when exiting its den, making the set nearly fool-proof. It weighs 18 lbs and measures 36L x 10W x 12H. It is contructed from 1/2" x 1" - 14 gauge galvanized wire mesh. The tighter mesh pattern prevent animals from reaching in from the outside and steeling bait, and also from reaching outside and damaging roofs, lawns, and other property. It is equipped with steel rod reinforcement, easy release door, carrying handles and hand guard

Size = 36" x 10" x 12"
Grid Construction = ½" x 1"
Gauge = 12
Weight = 18 lbs

PROFESSIONAL TRAPS WITH REAR SLIDING DOORS
Traps are made with the same great design, materials, and specifications as our Single Door Traps, with the addition of a convenient rear sliding door that allows for the easy baiting, and transferring of animals. The rear sliding door feature ultimately keeps the handler out of striking distance because he never has to get close to the trapped animal. It eliminates the need to reset the front trap door to release the animal. It also eliminates the need to reach all the way through the trap to position the bait beyond the trip pan. With a rear sliding door, the handler just unhooks the safety snap on the rear sliding door and pulls up on its handle. This is the easiest way to release a trapped animal, or bait a trap.

These traps feature a sturdy frame that is constructed of heavy 12 gauge galvanized steel wire mesh for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion. An open fabric construction allows the animals to see through the trap in all directions and enter the trap with confidence. Galvanized steel rods are welded to the wire mesh frame for extra support and reinforcement. A spring loaded, automatic locking V-door, securely and safely traps the animal inside the trap immediately after the animal steps onto the trip pan, located at the back of the trap. Galvanized 1/2 by 1/2 inch wire mesh openings are welded to the bait areas to prevent animals from reaching through the outside of the trap. A super fast spring loaded door eliminates the chance of the animal backing out of the trap before the door springs shut and locks into place. The special locking system and the heavy reinforcement of the trap doors prohibits animals from forcing the door open, even if the animals manages to turn the trap upside down. This makes these traps perform well when trapping animals at any angle. Professional Traps are also equipped with an adjustable trigger release mechanism that allows for heavy or light sets. Most of these traps include a protective piece of galvanized sheet under the safety handle of the trap, to protect the trapper against scratches from the trapped animal.

Some General Raccoon Information - Raccoons breed mainly in February and March with a gestation period of 63 days. Adult males travel within areas of about 3 to 8 square miles, compared to about 1 to 3 square miles for females.

What Damage to raccoons do?
The different types of damage which raccoons are capable of are almost too numerous to mention. In urban environments, raccoons are more than capable of finding homes in uncapped chimneys. tearing off shingles or fascia in order to gain entrance to an attic or wall void, tearing up lawns in search for grubs and earthworms, destroying gardens, and upsetting and eating the contents of garbage cans. In attics and wall voids, the build-up of raccoon feces and urine can constitute health hazards to the homeowner. In more rural environments, raccoons can be highly destructive in and around poultry barns.

What bait should I use for raccoons?
Fish, fresh or canned, honey or sugar covered vegetables, smoked fish, watermelon, sweet corn, cooked fatty meat, crisp bacon. Special favorite of the raccoon is marshmallows!

Where should I place raccoons traps?
Locate the trap in an area where raccoons are often observed. Place the trap on a level surface. Since raccoons tend to dig all the dirt up under the trap, place the trap on a flat piece of wood. Dispose of the wood after the raccoon is caught. Position one side of the trap against a wall of a building or in a path commonly traveled by raccoons. Before handling the trap, you may want to spray with an insecticide because they often have fleas and ticks. Wear sturdy gloves to cover your hands, since raccoons and skunks carry many diseases. If there are known cases of rabies in your area, we suggest that you contact a professional animal removal service.

Preparation for Trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.

You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you don't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Prepare the area where you will be holding the cats before and after the clinic. A garage or other sheltered, warm, protected area is best. Lay down newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine and food residue. You may want to use pieces of wood to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray (like Adams or Ovitrol) will discourage ants.

Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport them as well. Plastic may be an additional precaution. But remember that you will need to use newspapers or some other absorbent material in addition. (Urine will roll right off of the plastic, and that isn't what you want.)

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again — they learn very quickly.

If there are young kittens involved, remember that they should not be weaned from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are old enough to wean. If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out, they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find the job progressively harder with age.

Setting the Traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Don't trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could drown during storms or suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense!

Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap just covering the trip plate. Cats don't like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps to keep their feet from going through when you pick up the trap. Be sure that the paper does not extend beyond the trip plate. Too much newspaper can interfere with the trap mechanism or prevent the door from closing properly.

Plan placement of traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it wobbles. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cat). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good camouflage for the trap.

Use smelly food to bait the trap. We find that canned mackerel is very effective and relatively inexpensive. It is best not to put any bowls inside the trap to hold food since the animal can easily hurt itself on it in a panic or while recovering from anesthetic.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.

Spoon a small amount of food onto the soaked newspaper scrap and place the trap on top of the food so the food is as far back in the trap as possible while still not accessible from outside the trap. (You want the cat to go all the way into the trap to avoid being injured when the trap door closes.) Press the trap down onto the food so that it squishes up through the wire. The idea is to make the food a little hard to get so that the cat has to go into the trap as far as possible and has to work at getting it long enough to trip the trap. (Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps without getting caught. We don't want to make it too easy for them to get away with that trick. Also, having the food essentially outside of the trap prevents the cat from eating it in the trap before surgery and is less messy.)

After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position which also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap.

After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top, sides and back of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is caught.

Just before you are ready to leave the trap for the cat to enter, you may want to push the hook (ever so slightly) a little bit back off the cylinder to create a "hair trigger." (Don't get too carried away with this step, or the trap will trip as soon as the cat takes a sniff!)

Waiting for Success

Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but don't hang around within sight of the cat (or you will scare it off). The trapped animal is vulnerable. Passersby may release the cat or steal the trap! Wait quietly in an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check traps every 15 minutes or so. You can often hear the traps trip and see the cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening from a distance. As soon as the intended cat is trapped, completely cover the trap and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one. Be sure to dispose of the food left on the ground when you pick up the trap. (You don't want to litter or give out any freebies and spoil any appetites!)

When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift the cover and check for signs that you have the correct animal and not a pet or previously neutered feral. (The FCC marks the right ear of every animal we alter so we can avoid repeat animals.) If you note that you have captured a lactating female check the area for kittens and remember that this female must be released 10-12 hours after surgery so she can care for and nurse her kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the animal may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap.

Of course, there is always the chance that you will catch some other wild animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal quietly as stated in the releasing procedures here.

Holding Procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.)

Place cats in the prepared protected area. Don't feed them. You can place a small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that won't be tipped over easily. An empty catfood or tuna can works fairly well. Don't open the door too wide, or the cat may escape. (Be sure to remove the bowl before transporting the cat to the vet.)

Keep cats covered and check periodically. They will probably be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don't stick fingers in the trap or allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and bite. ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. IT MUST BE QUARANTINED. CONTACT YOUR VET FOR QUARANTINE INSTRUCTIONS.

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the Cats

If a cat does not seem to be recovering well from the surgery, consider having it checked out by a vet before releasing. When cats are ready for release, return to the area in which they were captured and release them there. Do not relocate the animal! It will be disoriented and most likely die. In all likelihood, area cats will drive it away.

If the veterinarian has indicated a serious medical problem with the cat which you will not be able to treat, you, with the advice of the vet, must make the decision on whether it is safe to release the animal or kinder to euthanize it. Untreated abscesses and respiratory infections, and a number of other conditions, can mean suffering and a slow death.

Make sure the spot you pick for release does not encourage the cat to run into danger (like a busy street) to get away from you. Keep the trap covered until you are ready to release. When ready, simply hold the trap with the door facing away from you and open the door. The cat will probably bolt immediately out of the trap. If it is confused, just tilt the trap so the back is slightly up and tap on the back of the trap to encourage it to leave. Never put your hand in the trap! If the animal still will not leave, prop the door open with a stick and leave it for a while. A trapped skunk or possum, which is nocturnal, may decide to sleep in the trap all day and not leave the trap until dark.

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful Hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens if the previously captured kittens are placed in a covered carrier just behind the trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if the previously captured mom is in the carrier. Females in heat can be placed in a carrier to attract male cats who have been eluding the traps. Never place the "bait" animal in the trap or anywhere where it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms can hurt their babies if frightened enough. Be careful not to let the "bait" animal escape.

Some kittens can be caught without a trap but are still too wild to be handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to help protect you from scratching and biting. This also helps prevent the kitten from squirming away from you.

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

Visit Rigid Profession Traps w/1Trap Door & Release Door to see additional products in this category.

Professional Raccoon/Rabbit/Feral Cat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap w/ 1/2" x 1" Grid

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:54:00 GMT

Professional Raccoon/Rabbit/Feral Cat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap w/ 1/2" x 1" Grid
Buy Now: $114.25

Raccoon, Rabbit, Badger,Ground Hog, Wood Chuck & Cat Live ProTrap

Model 608SS is a professional live trap with an easy release door for raccoons, cats, armadillos and similar size animals. It feature a very strong wire frame with tighter mesh patterns and extra reinforcing steel rods welded to the frame for even greater strength. These traps have the same great design as our Original Series traps with stronger materials and more demanding specifications. Tighter mesh patterns not only give the trap additional strength, but also prevent critters from reaching into the trap and stealing bait, and reaching out of the trap and damaging lawns, roofs, decks, and other property. The easy release door allows for the easiest way to release trapped animals and to bait the trap.

Size = 32" x 10" x 12"
Grid Construction = ½" x 1"
Gauge = 12
Weight = 17 lbs

Preparation for Trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.

You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you don't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again — they learn very quickly.

Setting the Traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.

Waiting for Success

Holding Procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.)

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the Cats

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful Hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

Visit Rigid Profession Traps w/1Trap Door & Release Door to see additional products in this category.

Professional Cat / Rabbit / Raccoon Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Grid

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:46:00 GMT

Professional Cat / Rabbit / Raccoon Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Grid
Buy Now: $83.75

Cat/Rabbit/Raccoon Live ProTrap

Model 606SS is a professional live trap with an easy release door for cats, rabbits and similar size animals. It feature a very strong wire frame with tighter mesh patterns and extra reinforcing steel rods welded to the frame for even greater strength. These traps have the same great design as our Original Series traps with stronger materials and more demanding specifications. Tighter mesh patterns not only give the trap additional strength, but also prevent critters from reaching into the trap and stealing bait, and reaching out of the trap and damaging lawns, roofs, decks, and other property. The easy release door allows for the easiest way to release trapped animals and to bait the trap.

Size = 26" x 9" x 9"
Grid Construction = ½" x 1"
Gauge = 14
Weight = 9 lbs

These traps feature a sturdy frame that is constructed of heavy 14 gauge galvanized steel wire mesh for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion. An open fabric construction allows the animals to see through the trap in all directions and enter the trap with confidence. Galvanized steel rods are welded to the wire mesh frame for extra support and reinforcement. A spring loaded, automatic locking V-door, securely and safely traps the animal inside the trap immediately after the animal steps onto the trip pan, located at the back of the trap. Galvanized 1/2 by 1/2 inch wire mesh openings are welded to the bait areas to prevent animals from reaching through the outside of the trap. A super fast spring loaded door eliminates the chance of the animal backing out of the trap before the door springs shut and locks into place. The special locking system and the heavy reinforcement of the trap doors prohibits animals from forcing the door open, even if the animals manages to turn the trap upside down. This makes these traps perform well when trapping animals at any angle. Professional Transfer Traps are also equipped with an adjustable trigger release mechanism that allows for heavy or light sets. Most of these traps include a protective piece of galvanized sheet under the safety handle of the trap, to protect the trapper against scratches from the trapped animal.

What Damage do cats or rabbits do?

The appetite of a rabbit can cause problems every season of the year. Rabbits eat flowers and vegetables in spring and summer. In falland winter, they damage and kill valuable woody plants. Cats will spray their unpleasent musk to mark their territory, deposit fecal matter in your gardens & in children's uncovered sandboxes and attack your pet cat to establish dominance.

What bait should I use for cats or rabbits?
The best bait options are for attracting wild rabbits? Imperial recommends the following baits to draw wild rabbits to your trap. Place the bait at the end of the rabbit trap away from the door. Try a different bait each night until you find the bait your rabbits will enter the trap fort; Brussel sprouts, Carrots, Lettuce, Apples. Spray the inside of the trap with apple cider. For cats, a can of smelly cat food or tuna (packed in oil) will work fine.

Where should I place cat or rabbit traps?
For rabbits, place the trap near areas thick with brush or locations that damage has occurred. For cats, place trap anywhere you have noticed them wandering in. Check the trap often and if in agreement with local and state laws, release the animal in a suitable habitat at least 5 miles away.

Preparation for Trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.

You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you don't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again — they learn very quickly.

Setting the Traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.

Waiting for Success

Holding Procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.)

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the Cats

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful Hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

Visit Rigid Profession Traps w/1Trap Door & Release Door to see additional products in this category.

Professional Skunk / Opossum - Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Wire Grid

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:37:00 GMT

Professional Skunk / Opossum - Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Wire Grid
Buy Now: $67.50

Skunk /Opossum Live TransferTrap

Model 605SS is a professional live trap with an easy release door for skunks, opossums, prairie dogs and similar size animals. It feature a very strong wire frame with tighter mesh patterns and extra reinforcing steel rods welded to the frame for even greater strength. These traps have the same great design as our Original Series traps with stronger materials and more demanding specifications. Tighter mesh patterns not only give the trap additional strength, but also prevent critters from reaching into the trap and stealing bait, and reaching out of the trap and damaging lawns, roofs, decks, and other property. The easy release door allows for the easiest way to release trapped animals and to bait the trap.

Size = 24" x 7" x 7"
Grid Construction = ½" x 1"
Gauge = 14
Weight = 7 lbs

PROFESSSIONAL TRAPS WITH REAR SLIDING DOORS
Traps are made with the same great design, materials, and specifications as our Single Door Traps, with the addition of a convenient rear sliding door that allows for the easy baiting, and transferring of animals. The rear sliding door feature ultimately keeps the handler out of striking distance because he never has to get close to the trapped animal. It eliminates the need to reset the front trap door to release the animal. It also eliminates the need to reach all the way through the trap to position the bait beyond the trip pan. With a rear sliding door, the handler just unhooks the safety snap on the rear sliding door and pulls up on its handle. This is the easiest way to release a trapped animal, or bait a trap.

These traps feature a sturdy frame that is constructed of heavy 14 gauge galvanized steel wire mesh for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion. An open fabric construction allows the animals to see through the trap in all directions and enter the trap with confidence. Galvanized steel rods are welded to the wire mesh frame for extra support and reinforcement. A spring loaded, automatic locking V-door, securely and safely traps the animal inside the trap immediately after the animal steps onto the trip pan, located at the back of the trap. Galvanized 1/2 by 1/2 inch wire mesh openings are welded to the bait areas to prevent animals from reaching through the outside of the trap. A super fast spring loaded door eliminates the chance of the animal backing out of the trap before the door springs shut and locks into place. The special locking system and the heavy reinforcement of the trap doors prohibits animals from forcing the door open, even if the animals manages to turn the trap upside down. This makes these traps perform well when trapping animals at any angle. Professional Traps are also equipped with an adjustable trigger release mechanism that allows for heavy or light sets. Most of these traps include a protective piece of galvanized sheet under the safety handle of the trap, to protect the trapper against scratches from the trapped animal.

What Damage to skunks do?
Skunks dig holes in lawns and golf courses, eat garden produce, prey on poultry and waterfowl, damage beehives, den under buildings, are a host for rabies, and spray musk.

What bait should I use for skunks?
Chicken entrails, cracknels, fish-canned (sardines) or fresh-insect larvae such as may beetles, crisp bacon, cat food, bread crust coated with peanut butter.

Where should I place skunk traps?
Set the trap in the travel lanes or near the den. You can do this by placing small pieces of bait leading up to the trap. You can also define a path by placing logs or wood up to the trap will also help.After setting the trap, cover it with a blanket (one that you wont want to use again). If you forget to cover the trap, and a skunk has been caught, grab a blanket that is long enough to cover your feet. Approach the trap cautiously and calmly, holding the blanket as you walk with you feet covered, and gently place the blanket over the trap. The blanket is used to keep the animal calm and prevent it from spraying so that it can then be removed to a safer place.

Visit Rigid Profession Traps w/1Trap Door & Release Door to see additional products in this category.

Professional Squirrel / Muskrat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Wire Grid

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:30:00 GMT

Professional Squirrel / Muskrat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Trap with 1/2" x 1" Wire Grid
Buy Now: $57.30

Squirrel / Muskrat Live Trap

Model 603SS is a professional live trap with an easy release door for squirrels, muskrats and similar size animals. It feature a very strong wire frame with tighter mesh patterns and extra reinforcing steel rods welded to the frame for even greater strength. These traps have the same great design as our Original Series traps with stronger materials and more demanding specifications. Tighter mesh patterns not only give the trap additional strength, but also prevent critters from reaching into the trap and stealing bait, and reaching out of the trap and damaging lawns, roofs, decks, and other property. The easy release door allows for the easiest way to release trapped animals and to bait the trap.

Size = 19" x 6" x 6"
Grid Construction = ½" x 1"
Gauge = 16
Weight = 3 lbs

These traps feature a sturdy frame that is constructed of heavy 16 gauge galvanized steel wire mesh for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion. An open fabric construction allows the animals to see through the trap in all directions and enter the trap with confidence. Galvanized steel rods are welded to the wire mesh frame for extra support and reinforcement. A spring loaded, automatic locking V-door, securely and safely traps the animal inside the trap immediately after the animal steps onto the trip pan, located at the back of the trap. Galvanized 1/2 by 1/2 inch wire mesh openings are welded to the bait areas to prevent animals from reaching through the outside of the trap. A super fast spring loaded door eliminates the chance of the animal backing out of the trap before the door springs shut and locks into place. The special locking system and the heavy reinforcement of the trap doors prohibits animals from forcing the door open, even if the animals manages to turn the trap upside down. This makes these traps perform well when trapping animals at any angle. Traps are also equipped with an adjustable trigger release mechanism that allows for heavy or light sets. Most of these traps include a protective piece of galvanized sheet under the safety handle of the trap, to protect the trapper against scratches from the trapped animal.

What Damage to squirrels do?
Squirrels are very cute until they become a pest around structures. If they enter a building, they are capable of doing damage to a multitude of objects because of their chewing behavior. The most common entry point for squirrels is the attic, which they may enter by chewing a hole into a gable or other susceptible area. In other cases, squirrel will chew into soffits areas and make themselves quite comfortable there.

Once in the attic or soffit, they may nest and eventually reproduce with a litter of several young. In an attic, there is potential for damage to stored goods as well as to wiring with the potential for fire due to gnawing of those wires. Droppings from squirrels may also be a nuisance. If squirrels enter a home through a door or garage, they may do damage to furniture and upholstery in an effort to escape. In other cases, squirrels may do damage outdoors by chewing on structures, screens, lawn furniture, plants or digging in the grass.

What bait should I use for squirrels?
Cereal, grains, nuts (especially peanuts) sunflower seeds, anise oil (a drop or two on bread), shelled corn, apples work well for bait. Mixed peanut butter and oatmeal or peanut butter and molasses, popcorn. One trapper swears by almond extract on bread as bait to tempt the nearest squirrel.

Where should I place squirrel traps?
Check the route that is used most often and set the trap in the appropriate place. You may have to trap several squirrels to solve the problems that you are experiencing. Do not leave the squirrel in the trap overnight as they are a nervous animal and may die. Check the trap often and if in agreement with local and state laws, release the animal in a suitable habitat at least 5 miles away.

Visit Rigid Profession Traps w/1Trap Door & Release Door to see additional products in this category.

Professional Chipmunk / Rat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Traps with 1/2" x 1/2" Wire Grid

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 18:22:00 GMT

Professional Chipmunk / Rat Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Animal Traps with 1/2" x 1/2" Wire Grid
Buy Now: $52.75

Chipmunk/Rat Live Traps

Model 602SS is a professional live trap with an easy release door for chipmunks, gophers, rats, and similar size animals. It feature a very strong wire frame with tighter mesh patterns and extra reinforcing steel rods welded to the frame for even greater strength. These traps have the same great design as our Original Series traps with stronger materials and more demanding specifications. Tighter mesh patterns not only give the trap additional strength, but also prevent critters from reaching into the trap and stealing bait, and reaching out of the trap and damaging lawns, roofs, decks, and other property. The easy release door allows for the easiest way to release trapped animals and to bait the trap.

Size = 16" x 5" x 5"
Grid Construction = ½" x ½"
Gauge = 16
Weight = 5 lbs

PROFESSIONAL TRAPS WITH REAR SLIDING DOORS
These are made with the same great design, materials, and specifications as our Professional Single Door Traps, with the addition of a convenient rear sliding door that allows for the easy baiting, and transferring of animals. The rear sliding door feature ultimately keeps the handler out of striking distance because he never has to get close to the trapped animal. It eliminates the need to reset the front trap door to release the animal. It also eliminates the need to reach all the way through the trap to position the bait beyond the trip pan. With a rear sliding door, the handler just unhooks the safety snap on the rear sliding door and pulls up on its handle. This is the easiest way to release a trapped animal, or bait a trap.

What Damage to Rats do?
Rats cause a huge loss of food worldwide. Besides eating our food they spoil it by contamination with their feces, urine, or fur. They can be found not only in our homes, but supermarkets, restaurants, warehouses, food processing facilities, livestock facilities, and farm fields.

What bait should I use for Rats? Cereal, grains, nuts (especially peanuts) sunflower seeds, anise oil (a drop or two on bread), shelled corn, apples work well for bait. Mixed peanut butter and oatmeal or peanut butter and molasses, popcorn. One trapper swears by almond extract on bread as bait to tempt the nearest rat.

Where should I place Rat traps?
It is very important to use plenty of traps. As many as six traps for only one or two rats is appropriate. In a commercial building or restaurant as much as a couple of dozen is needed.The traps should be placed in darkened corners, along walls, behind appliances and any areas where droppings have been sighted. In trapping for rats, place traps about 10 feet apart since they don't travel very far. If the rat population is large, place the traps about 15-20 feet apart.

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