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Copy of Standard Animal Control Pole Replacement Parts - 28" Cable Assembly

Sat, 28 May 2022 17:41:08 GMT

Copy of Standard Animal Control Pole Replacement Parts - 28" Cable Assembly
Buy Now: ~~$21.99~~ $19.80

28'' Replacement Cable Assembly

For Model ACP28

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Large 36" Trap-Neuter-Return Neighborhood Cat Animal Trap Kit with Divider

Wed, 10 Jun 2020 15:01:27 GMT

Large 36" Trap-Neuter-Return Neighborhood Cat Animal Trap Kit with Divider
Buy Now: $180.15

NEIGHBORHOOD CATS TRAP KIT- Large

This Cat Trap, Cage & Divider Kit comes with:

One model 608FC Cat Trap is our 36" FixNation Cat Trap featuring extra large trip pan, extra large handles and hand protector and an easy release door.
One model 306NC Transfer Cage is a feral cat transfer cage with removable bottom tray, extra large handles and hand protector and is made to line up perfectly with our feral cat traps.
One TD12NC Trap Divider is a heavy duty, powder coated trap divider with attaching clip to lock in place.
Free standard shipping in the contiguous USA

Tired of taping cardboard onto the trip plate of a trap meant for catching raccoons? Exasperated at getting your feral cat back from the vet and finding the back door unlocked? Never enough room on the top plate to place your labels? At long last, your trap has arrived! This the first trap on the market made especially for Trap-Neuter-Return. TNR traps were specifically designed by a TNR specialist from Neighborhood Cats Organization of NY.

Neighborhood Cats Traps cure the problems faced over the years when adapting traps made for other animal or purposes. Lots of time was spent by TNR professionals taping cardboard onto trip plates to make the plates long enough to prevent cats from stepping right over them. The trip plate on our Neighborhood Cat Trap is long enough so this will no longer be necessary. TNR traps should also have rear release doors. This makes it possible to feed and clean while a cat is confined in the trap before and after surgery. But the traps used in the past either had no locking mechanism for the rear door or had one that was too ofter left undone when the cats were returned from the vet or spay/neuter clinic.

On the Neighborhood Cats trap, locking the back door is a simple, one-step process. Just snap the clip through the loop and you're good! Then there were the handles that were too small, or only one, so when you had a trapped cat shifting around, the trap would tip back and forth and be difficult to carry. Neighborhood Cat Trap has two extra long and thick handles to solve this problem. The top plate is extra large as well, offering more protection to the person carrying the trap from an irrate lodger, plus there's more space for placing labels and instructions for your clinic or fellow trappers.

The trap comes with ususal features, including excellent construction, extra reinforced steel rods to secure the front door automatic locking mechanism, smaller wire mesh openings near the rear door to protect your bait from feline paws reaching in, adjustable trigger mechanism with brass roller, and durability for long lasting use. Neighborhood Cats Organization calls this trap their favorite trap, after all, they designed it .

It's strong enough that it can be safely used for feeding and cleaning while a cat is confined in the trap. The divider, also designed by Neighborhood Cats, comes with its own safety clip which can be attached to the side or top of the trap. It will work with any standard trap, and is made from 1/4" steel rods for extra strength and durability. Cages with the same rear sliding door latch located at the top of the cage, are also available to match the Neighborhood Cat Traps.

Preparation for Trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.

You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you don't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Prepare the area where you will be holding the cats before and after the clinic. A garage or other sheltered, warm, protected area is best. Lay down newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine and food residue. You may want to use pieces of wood to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray (like Adams or Ovitrol) will discourage ants.

Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport them as well. Plastic may be an additional precaution. But remember that you will need to use newspapers or some other absorbent material in addition. (Urine will roll right off of the plastic, and that isn't what you want.)

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again — they learn very quickly.

If there are young kittens involved, remember that they should not be weaned from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are old enough to wean. If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out, they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find the job progressively harder with age.

Setting the Traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Don't trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could drown during storms or suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense!

Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap just covering the trip plate. Cats don't like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps to keep their feet from going through when you pick up the trap. Be sure that the paper does not extend beyond the trip plate. Too much newspaper can interfere with the trap mechanism or prevent the door from closing properly.

Plan placement of traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it wobbles. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cat). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good camouflage for the trap.

Use smelly food to bait the trap. We find that canned mackerel is very effective and relatively inexpensive. It is best not to put any bowls inside the trap to hold food since the animal can easily hurt itself on it in a panic or while recovering from anesthetic.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.

Spoon a small amount of food onto the soaked newspaper scrap and place the trap on top of the food so the food is as far back in the trap as possible while still not accessible from outside the trap. (You want the cat to go all the way into the trap to avoid being injured when the trap door closes.) Press the trap down onto the food so that it squishes up through the wire. The idea is to make the food a little hard to get so that the cat has to go into the trap as far as possible and has to work at getting it long enough to trip the trap. (Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps without getting caught. We don't want to make it too easy for them to get away with that trick. Also, having the food essentially outside of the trap prevents the cat from eating it in the trap before surgery and is less messy.)

After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position which also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap.

After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top, sides and back of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is caught.

Just before you are ready to leave the trap for the cat to enter, you may want to push the hook (ever so slightly) a little bit back off the cylinder to create a "hair trigger." (Don't get too carried away with this step, or the trap will trip as soon as the cat takes a sniff!)

Waiting for Success

Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but don't hang around within sight of the cat (or you will scare it off). The trapped animal is vulnerable. Passersby may release the cat or steal the trap! Wait quietly in an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check traps every 15 minutes or so. You can often hear the traps trip and see the cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening from a distance. As soon as the intended cat is trapped, completely cover the trap and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one. Be sure to dispose of the food left on the ground when you pick up the trap. (You don't want to litter or give out any freebies and spoil any appetites!)

When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift the cover and check for signs that you have the correct animal and not a pet or previously neutered feral. (The FCC marks the right ear of every animal we alter so we can avoid repeat animals.) If you note that you have captured a lactating female check the area for kittens and remember that this female must be released 10-12 hours after surgery so she can care for and nurse her kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the animal may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap.

Of course, there is always the chance that you will catch some other wild animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal quietly as stated in the releasing procedures here.

Holding Procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.)

Place cats in the prepared protected area. Don't feed them. You can place a small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that won't be tipped over easily. An empty catfood or tuna can works fairly well. Don't open the door too wide, or the cat may escape. (Be sure to remove the bowl before transporting the cat to the vet.)

Keep cats covered and check periodically. They will probably be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don't stick fingers in the trap or allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and bite. ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. IT MUST BE QUARANTINED. CONTACT YOUR VET FOR QUARANTINE INSTRUCTIONS.

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the Cats

If a cat does not seem to be recovering well from the surgery, consider having it checked out by a vet before releasing. When cats are ready for release, return to the area in which they were captured and release them there. Do not relocate the animal! It will be disoriented and most likely die. In all likelihood, area cats will drive it away.

If the veterinarian has indicated a serious medical problem with the cat which you will not be able to treat, you, with the advice of the vet, must make the decision on whether it is safe to release the animal or kinder to euthanize it. Untreated abscesses and respiratory infections, and a number of other conditions, can mean suffering and a slow death.

Make sure the spot you pick for release does not encourage the cat to run into danger (like a busy street) to get away from you. Keep the trap covered until you are ready to release. When ready, simply hold the trap with the door facing away from you and open the door. The cat will probably bolt immediately out of the trap. If it is confused, just tilt the trap so the back is slightly up and tap on the back of the trap to encourage it to leave. Never put your hand in the trap! If the animal still will not leave, prop the door open with a stick and leave it for a while. A trapped skunk or possum, which is nocturnal, may decide to sleep in the trap all day and not leave the trap until dark.

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful Hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens if the previously captured kittens are placed in a covered carrier just behind the trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if the previously captured mom is in the carrier. Females in heat can be placed in a carrier to attract male cats who have been eluding the traps. Never place the "bait" animal in the trap or anywhere where it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms can hurt their babies if frightened enough. Be careful not to let the "bait" animal escape.

Some kittens can be caught without a trap but are still too wild to be handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to help protect you from scratching and biting. This also helps prevent the kitten from squirming away from you.

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

Visit Wildlife Traps, Nets, & Supplies to see additional products in this category.

Medium/Large 32" Trap-Neuter-Return Neighborhood Cat Animal Trap Kit with Divider

Wed, 10 Jun 2020 13:57:22 GMT

Medium/Large 32" Trap-Neuter-Return Neighborhood Cat Animal Trap Kit with Divider
Buy Now: $180.15

NEIGHBORHOOD CATS TRAP KIT- Medium/Large

This Cat Trap, Cage & Divider Kit comes with:

One model 608FN Cat Trap is our 32" FixNation Cat Trap featuring extra large trip pan, extra large handles and hand protector and an easy release door.
One model 306NC Transfer Cage is a feral cat transfer cage with removable bottom tray, extra large handles and hand protector and is made to line up perfectly with our feral cat traps.
One TD12NC Trap Divider is a heavy duty, powder coated trap divider with attaching clip to lock in place.
Free standard shipping in the contiguous USA

Preparation for Trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of day.

You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area.

Don't feed the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you don't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat 12 hours prior to surgery.

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again — they learn very quickly.

Setting the Traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the mackerel juice, and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the trap.

Waiting for Success

Holding Procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous arrangements with a vet.)

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the Cats

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach. Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful Hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

Visit Wildlife Traps, Nets, & Supplies to see additional products in this category.

Canada Geese & Wild Turkey Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Trap with 1 x 2 Grid

Tue, 7 Aug 2012 09:06:00 GMT

Canada Geese & Wild Turkey Galvanized Metal Live Transfer Trap with 1 x 2 Grid
Buy Now: $191.10

Canada Geese & Wild Turkey Live Trap

Deluxe Transfer Trap, Model 609.5, is just like Tomahawk Model 109.5, but it also has the added benefit of having a rear release door. This addition, makes Model 609.5 a must-have for catching large foul like Canada Geese & Wild Turkey. This trap can also be used for animals like bobcats, coyotes, nutria, fox, and small to medium sized dogs.

Size = 42" x 15" x 20"
Grid Construction = 1" x 2"
Gauge = 12
Weight = 50 lbs

TRANSFER TRAPS WITH REAR SLIDING DOORS
Transfer Live Traps are made with the same great design, materials, and specifications as our Single Door Traps, with the addition of a convenient rear sliding door that allows for the easy baiting, and transferring of animals. The rear sliding door feature ultimately keeps the handler out of striking distance because he never has to get close to the trapped animal. It eliminates the need to reset the front trap door to release the animal. It also eliminates the need to reach all the way through the trap to position the bait beyond the trip pan. With a rear sliding door, the handler just unhooks the safety snap on the rear sliding door and pulls up on its handle. This is the easiest way to release a trapped animal, or bait a trap.

These traps feature a sturdy frame that is constructed of heavy 12, 14, or 16 gauge galvanized steel wire mesh (depending upon model) for maximum resistance to rust and corrosion. An open fabric construction allows the animals to see through the trap in all directions and enter the trap with confidence. Galvanized steel rods are welded to the wire mesh frame for extra support and reinforcement. A spring loaded, automatic locking V-door, securely and safely traps the animal inside the trap immediately after the animal steps onto the trip pan, located at the back of the trap. Galvanized 1/2 by 1/2 inch wire mesh openings are welded to the bait areas to prevent animals from reaching through the outside of the trap. A super fast spring loaded door eliminates the chance of the animal backing out of the trap before the door springs shut and locks into place. The special locking system and the heavy reinforcement of the trap doors prohibits animals from forcing the door open, even if the animals manages to turn the trap upside down. This makes these traps perform well when trapping animals at any angle. Deluxe Transfer Traps are also equipped with an adjustable trigger release mechanism that allows for heavy or light sets. Most of these traps include a protective piece of galvanized sheet under the safety handle of the trap, to protect the trapper against scratches from the trapped animal.

If storage space is a concern, Model 609.5 is also available as a collapsible trap, Model 209.5.

Collapsible Trap, Model 209.5, is the perfect alternative when storage space is a concern.

WHERE DO GEESE LIVE?

A. Geese generally nest on shorelines, islands, man-made structures and muskrat and beaver lodges. If an area provides a water source, cover for a nest and a good place for the bird to have a lookout, it is likely a goose will build its home there. Since geese most always choose to live near water, flooding is often a destructive force for goose nests. Geese are also attracted to lawns with short, mowed grass.

Lakes, marshes, fields, golf courses, ponds and reservoirs are all common areas where a goose infestation may occur, but any place that provides food and shelter for a goose may become its new home. Many golf courses, backyard ponds and even swimming pools offer both food and shelter for flocks of geese.

If geese are nesting near your home or business, they draw other geese by decoy. Geese and other migrant waterfowl are drawn to other geese. They sense that those geese must have food and good goose shelter if they’re all gathering around. A goose’s nest will tend to be very large, sometimes up to four feet across.

WHEN ARE GEESE MOST ACTIVE?

A. Migratory geese spend the winter months in the southern United States. Some Canada geese don’t migrate at all, and those are the geese that live throughout the country year-round. Early April is the time when most geese start to build their nests, just in time for the mother goose to lay four to seven white eggs, while the male goose stands watch close by. Some geese have been known to lay up to 12 eggs at a time. Canada geese are monogamous, meaning they only have one partner. The eggs will stay in the nest for about a month, and the first week of May usually sees the most goose-egg hatchings.

For six weeks every summer, geese molt. The loss of feathers causes them to be unable to fly during that period of time.

WHAT FOODS DO GEESE EAT?

A. All geese are herbivorous grazers that enjoy eating aquatic plants and seeds, clover, cultivated grains and grasses from a lawn or golf course. An adult goose will eat up to four pounds of grass a day.

WHY SHOULD I LEARN HOW TO GET RID OF GEESE AROUND MY GOLF COURSE, POND, SWIMMING POOL OR LAWN?

A. Many people enjoy hearing the sounds of geese honking, seeing it as a sign of a season change. But geese honking all day outside your home or business can be just as loud and intrusive as the barks of an alarmed dog.

An adult goose can drop two pounds of fecal matter on your lawn and pathways daily. While eating, a goose will relieve itself every six to eight minutes. Goose droppings not only look horrible on benches, buildings, cars and lawns, but they also speed deterioration. Goose droppings can damage machinery and contaminate foods. Goose dung can burn your lawn. Sometimes, goose droppings can make a surface slick and dangerous to walk on. A large amount of goose fecal matter may produce a nasty smell and damage plants and crops. Goose fecal matter has been linked to the spread of diseases and bacterial infections.

Two geese can quickly become six. The population growth of geese ranges from 10 to 17 percent annually. And once geese find a suitable place to nest in your back yard or golf course, they are liable to come right back after their winter migration. As humans create landscaped yards with well-manicured lawns dotted with ponds and other water features, geese are finding perfect habitats in which they can thrive.

Goose droppings, nest paraphernalia and feathers can get sucked into your home’s vents and drain pipes and create a fire hazard, leading to thousands of dollars in repairs. Gutters can also be blocked, causing water to seep indoors and cause flooding.

When vents become toilets and garbage cans for geese, any disease, bug or odor that comes along with geese can contaminate the air that you breathe and any foods meant for human consumption. Mechanical units found on the roof can be damaged if goose feathers and nesting get caught in the fans.

Simply due to the natural circle of life, geese die. Their smells, parasites and diseases are left behind to affect you, your family and employees.

GEESE ARE AROUND MY LAWN, GOLF COURSE, SWIMMING POOL OR POND. WHAT OTHER GOOSE DAMAGE IS THERE?

A. Geese have excellent homing capabilities and will return to the same nesting site, even if the nest has been damaged or removed. Leaving a flock of geese on your property can be a real liability because of slip-and-fall hazards and contamination from droppings and nest materials. Expensive regular cleanup costs would need to be factored in to the home or business budget if geese are left to live on lawns or golf courses.

All these goose pest problems will affect the value of your property. It is difficult to sell a home that has a goose infestation and actually, it’s required by law that you fix the goose problem before you sell your home. Property value can decrease between five percent and ten percent due to goose flock problems.

Geese are territorial birds and will not hesitate to protect their nest and eggs from a human or house pet they see as a threat. An aggressive adult goose can easily knock down a child or senior citizen, and geese can fly up to 50 mph. An aggressive goose will hiss at you and rear its head and then perhaps charge. Geese will fly up and hit a human, cat or dog in the face. This is especially likely if the goose has nested in a place near human traffic, including a parking lot or shrubbery near a building.

Geese can cause agricultural damage to your yard, field or golf course through eating and trampling on the vegetation. If high goose numbers exist in shallow waters, their droppings can change the water’s ecology and cause bacterial and algae problems. Geese and their eggs have several predators, including raccoons, skunks, fox and coyotes. If a flock of geese nests on your lawn or golf course, these other animal pests will be attracted to your property, bringing all their dangers and nuisances with them.

I HEARD GEESE CARRY DISEASES. IS THAT TRUE?

A. Geese do carry diseases, including swimmer’s itch, histoplasmosis, toxoplasmosis, and giardia. These goose illnesses are spread by contact with goose poop, nest materials and dead geese.

When geese live in your pond, swimming pool or nearby lake, parasites that live on the geese will infest the water and climb aboard swimmers, giving them swimmer’s itch. The parasite larvae crawl onto the skin and burrow under it, which leads to a very severe, itchy red rash. The itching will last for up to two weeks; each time a person gets swimmer’s itch the symptoms become more severe.

Histoplasmosis is a fungus disease contracted through airborne spores in goose droppings. If geese have been on your lawn for a while, these spores can even infect the soil you garden in. Its symptoms may be anything from a mild influenza to blood abnormalities and fever, or even death. An eye condition has been linked to the goose disease histoplasmosis and can lead to blindness in those who contract it.

Toxoplasmosis is an infection that invades human tissue and can severely damage the central nervous system, especially in babies. Pregnant women are in extreme danger if infected with toxoplasmosis.

Geese carry the bacteria salmonella. People who pick up salmonella bacteria can become seriously ill with diarrhea, vomiting, fever and chills. Salmonella can also affect the blood. Goose salmonella can be spread through goose fecal matter.

If a human touches soil or water that has been tainted with goose droppings, and then touches his or her mouth, that human is at risk for giardia. Giardia symptoms can include cramps, bloating, diarrhea, fatigue and weight loss, and can last for a prolonged amount of time. Children who play near ponds or lakes with geese living nearby are especially at risk for giardia.

DO CONENOSE PARASITES AND OTHER BUGS REALLY LIVE ON GEESE?

A. Little critters can get a ride on a goose’s back. The closer you are to geese, the more chance you have of coming into contact with mites, ticks, fleas, lice, conenose bugs and other nibbling insects.

Bed bugs and swallow bugs are closely related parasites that can bite humans, causing itchy red welts all over the body.

Conenose bugs are bloodsucking parasites that can feed off humans. Bites from conenose bugs sometimes produce allergic reactions, which can be cause for concern in certain individuals. A bite may produce itchy welts or swelling of the tongue, larynx and trachea.

Several cases of mites biting humans indoors have been reported.

Ticks are very mobile and have been known to crawl down into buildings that geese are nesting near, and travel great distances to attach themselves to people.

If a goose brings fleas near your home, most likely the biting bug will hop onto your house pet’s back. Once inside, large flea populations can build up quickly. Fleas live on the outside of their hosts’ bodies and need to feed on blood in order to produce eggs.

Goose lice are not capable of living off a human host, but they do bite humans on occasion.

A goose bug living in a nest can become an infestation in your pantry or carpet in no time. One or two mites may stray from the goose nest and crawl along your kitchen table. But if the goose abandons its nest for any reason, the whole caboodle of goose bugs will enter your home, looking for a new host. This is why it’s especially important to have removed the goose nests and other garbage after all the geese have been trapped.

Geese are a liability for businesses, restaurants, golf courses and swimming pools. Goose diseases or goose bugs may infect your employees, guests or food. There are documented cases of illnesses occurring in these situations, and the plaintiff successfully sues the owner of the business. Also, if you are an employer and your workers’ environment is being contaminated by geese, you will see a drop in productivity due to illness.

SHOULD I TRAP OR KILL GEESE MYSELF

A. It is illegal to kill geese or to disturb their nests or eggs without express permission. Besides, simply killing the geese yourself doesn’t do any good, as more will come back later. Goose prevention measures have to be taken to make sure they don’t nest there again. The goose waste and nest materials need to be cleaned up, too. This task requires proper clothing and respitory gear so that you don’t expose yourself, your family or co-workers to conenose bugs and disease-ridden droppings.

Homeowners may try to take matters into their own hands by shooting and poisoning geese. First of all, this is illegal activity. Illegal use of poison can affect pets and people. Shooting causes even more goose problems, besides the fact that it’s illegal to shoot a gun in most urban and suburban areas. Use of decoys and traps are the best alternative. Note: In some areas, a permit is required to trap and kill or release Canada Geese & Wild Turkeys. ShopTJB is just providing you a means to catch the fowl. What you do afterwards with your catch is up to you.

WHAT BAIT WORKS BEST FOR TRAPPING GEESE & TURKEYS?

A.The most effective bait is the use of corn and by scattering a few handfuls widely then concentrating the remainder on a few stringers running out 4 or 5 feet beyond the entrance.

Ear corn is preferable to shelled corn for use inside the traps, as it retains the birds inside longer. Busily feeding geese or turkeys in the trap often induce the more wary foul outside to enter.

The cardinal rule In baiting is not to overfeed the geese or turkeys outside a trap. If long leads or stringers of grain are available at the entrances, the birds become satiated and take little interest in the food inside the trap.

For more in-depth information about managing and control of Canada Geese, go to: http://www.berrymaninstitute.org/pdf/urbangeese.pdf It provides a good overview for implementing an integrated damage management program.

What damage do bobcats, coyotes, or dogs do?
Bobcats will wipe out small to medium sized domestic animals. This includes calf’s, goats, house cats, small dogs, chickens, rabbits and anything else the Bobcat can catch. Bobcat trapping is the most effective way to remove unwanted Bobcats.

Your cats and dogs are easy prey as well as any livestock a Coyote sets his mind on. Coyote carry the rabies virus as well as other disease. As people build ponds stocked with fish, and other live animals, coyotes find these areas and quickly begin to feed on the bounty. Coyotes love eggs and can cause huge financial losses to both the commercial farmer as well as the weekend gardener. A coyote can become a problem when their feeding leads them to our gardens, livestock or pets. Coyote are more likely to eat garden vegetables and fruit. Because of how they forage, damage is quick and complete.

Feral dogs are a danger to everyone since they have no fear of humans. People who abandon animals are causing a terrible situation, let alone what they are doing to the dog. A pack of wild dogs is an accident waiting to happen and you or a child might be the victim. Feral or stray dogs also kill small animals, cats, chickens and sometimes carry rabies.

What bait should I use for bobcats, coyotes, or dogs?
Bobcats like any spiced meat like slim-jims, hot dogs or dehydrated meat products. Sardines have also proven effective for Bobcat trapping.

Coyotes prefer chicken, eggs, meat products, and smelly sardines seems to draw them as well.

Feral dogs are attracted to almost any beef food product, hotdogs work great.

Where should I place bobcat, coyote, or dog traps?
Place the Bobcat trap in a flat area where the Bobcat has been hunting, or has been seen.

The Coyote is a nocturnal animal that averages about 35 pounds, and comes out at night to hunt and forage. It is best to set the traps during the day around and near the problem areas, or if you know where the Coyote den is. Keep the Coyote trap near wooded areas, so the Coyote does not feel threatened.

Feral dog traps can be placed anywhere that the dog travel.

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Trap Caddie for open cage traps up to 36 inches

Thu, 19 Jul 2012 06:40:00 GMT

Trap Caddie for open cage traps up to 36 inches
Buy Now: $20.95

Trap Caddie

With Trap Caddie, you can carry your traps and trapped animals safely, securely, and with much less effort. The trap caddie is light and durable, fits all traps and cages from 18" - 36" in length and is constructed from heavy duty brass straight link chain.

The specifically designed cage hooks attach to the trap with ease, no tools are necessary. The Trap Caddie evenly distributes the captured animals weight for easy carrying. The comfort handle reduces wrist fatigue and stress.

Trap Caddie also allows you to carry trapped animals with your hands completely away from the animals reach.

Fits all traps and cages from 18" to 36" in length.
Heavy Duty Brass Straight Link Chain
Padded Grip for comfort
Brass Straight Linked Chain will not rust
Light weight = 0.6 lbs
FREE SHIPPING SPECIAL

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Multible Catch Live Snapping Turtle Trap - For Pond & Water Garden Predator Control

Wed, 18 Jul 2012 14:47:00 GMT

Multible Catch Live Snapping Turtle Trap - For Pond & Water Garden Predator Control
Buy Now: $129.75

Multible Catch Turtle Trap

Use this live turtle trap for those "#!@#" turtles that keeps getting your fish! Catch and remove your snapping turtle problem. Take your captured turtles several miles away before you release it.

This fantastic trap is a multiple catch turtle trap that can catch and hold many turtles at one time. It has a unique swinging trap door system that allows turtles to enter and not leave. It also has a "bait door" (see View Enlarged Image) near the back of the trap to allow you to quickly and easily bait the trap without reaching through the repeating trap door. It works especially well on snapping turtles. Just bait and set this trap and watch the turtles keep on coming.

Large for turtles up to 100 lbs.
24" Wide x 12" High x 42" Long - 19 lbs (Ships 55lbs DIM)
Constructed of rigid heavy duty galvanized 12 gauge wire mesh in a 1" x 2" Grid to form a strong cage
Super fast spring loaded doors with a special locking system that make them perform well when placed at any angle.
An adjustable trigger release pressure mechanism makes them easy to bait and set.
MADE in the USA
Ships oversized due to DIM Weight
These traps are the ultimate in convenience and reliability.
For optimal trapping conditions, bait the trap with pork fat or vegetable scraps wrapped in hardware cloth, and securely attach the bait to the inside, rear, of the trap with clips. Once the bait is in place, drop the trap into the water or place it on the shore, half in and half out of the water, where the turtles lurk. Turtles will enter the trap in search for food, step onto the trip pan, and activate the spring loaded, locking door.
If you choose to eat your turtle, Snapping Turtle makes a good soup. (Click here for recipe)
Note: If your turtle is as large, or larger, than the bottom picture, these traps will not work. We suggest calling the local zoo or use a gun!

There are two major fish eating species here: the "COMMON SNAPPING TURTLE" and the "ALLIGATOR SNAPPING TURTLE".

ROAMS THESE PARTS: SE Canada, W Rocky Mountains, throughout Mexico and as far as Equador. KNOWN FOR: Very mobile head and snapping beak like mouth.

HUMAN INTERACTION AND PURPOSE: Sometimes hunted for their meat (see recipe above),

LIFESPAN: 30 ish years.
THE EXTERIOR: They have rugged muscular builds, and come up to 20 inches in length and may weigh up to 70 lbs or more. Alligator Snapping Turtles can get over 24" in length & over 200 lbs in the southern states.
HABITAT: shallow ponds, lakes, streams, or water gardens.
DIET: Omnivores = Eating plants and animals. They prey on anything they can swallow, including fish, invertebrates, frogs and other reptiles, sometimes even small birds and mammals (including the finger of the stupid man in the picture).
DISTANCE: Will travel far for new habitat or laying of eggs. Up to several miles
MATING: From April to November, peak in June/July. Females look for sandy soil to lay eggs. She digs a hole and lays from 30 to 80 eggs each year. They hatch within 18 weeks.

YES, THEY DO GROW LARGER THAN THIS! Any one missing a cat or dog?

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

Turtle trap
Rope
Bait (fish or meat)
Box
Thick gloves

Step 1

Choose a relocation area for the turtle. For snapping turtles, look for a large body of water, at least five miles away. Otherwise, it may find its way back. Make sure the relocation spot has a plentiful natural food supply.

Step 2

Purchase our turtle trap. Attach the trap to a rope at each end of your pond to anchor it. To remove the turtles, simply pull the trap in by the rope.

Step 3

Place bait in your trap. Whole fish or strips of fish work best for snapping turtles, but you also can use any raw meat. Wrap your bait with rope or put it in a sack and attach it to the inside of the trap.

Step 4

Put your trap in a location where you've spotted snapping turtles. They tend to dwell in shallow water near submerged branches. Make sure to have the trap partially exposed so the turtle can get air and not drown.

Step 5

Check your trap daily. As soon as you've caught a snapper, remove it and place it in a strong cardboard or plastic box. Move it to your chosen relocation spot as soon as possible to save the turtle trauma. Be careful of your finger. Snapping Turtles can BITE! (See video below for example)

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Bulk Flat Poly Animal Leashes - 1/2" x 50" (Sold in Lots of 25)

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 17:56:00 GMT

Bulk Flat Poly Animal Leashes - 1/2" x 50" (Sold in Lots of 25)
Buy Now: $25.90

Flat Poly 1/2" x 50" Leash

Flat 1/2" x 50" polypropylene, "nylon" with a nickel plated "D" ring. This leash promotes safe transport, is stronger, wider, and thicker than most of our competitors, yet is still very economical.

Minimum Order is 25 pieces (1 lot)
Available Colors include: Royal Blue, Sky Blue, Red, Green, Maroon, Yellow, Gray, Orange, and Purple. (You may combine colors in multiples of 50)

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Tough Elk Hide Maxima Animal Handling Gloves with Padded Top-Grain Gauntlet for Max Bite Protection

Wed, 15 Feb 2012 14:46:00 GMT

Tough Elk Hide Maxima Animal Handling Gloves with Padded Top-Grain Gauntlet for Max Bite Protection
Buy Now: $184.99

Maxima Gloves with Removable Padded Gauntlet

Maximum crushing protection. Removable top-grain padded outer layer. Inner layer features elk hide hand for dexterity plus heavily padded sleeves. Ideal for large, dangerous dogs or other animals with a crushing bite. These gloves also work great for raptors and large wildlife.

(1) Pair
High Protection against Penetration for larger animals
Available in 4 sizes (Sm, Med, Lg, XLg)

Guide to Glove Sizing

Having protective equipment that fits properly is absolutely vital to the safety of employees. Knowing how to accurately measure and choose glove sizes can increase safety and productivity in the workplace. Learn how to determine appropriate glove sizes and avoid unnecessary injuries!

It is always the employer’s responsibility to his or her employees to assess the risk involved with certain applications. If the employer decides that hand protection is necessary, he or she must then determine the best glove for the specific conditions employees will be working under. Once the type of glove is chosen, you must decide on the size that will best fit. Most of the time employers must choose more than one size to suit various employees.

If gloves do not fit properly, it can often delay work or result in hand injuries. If the hand protection is too small, it may cause hand fatigue. If the protective material is stretched out, it is more likely to rip or tear during use which is costly to replace, as well as dangerous for the wearer. Gloves that are too small also decrease dexterity. On the other hand, gloves that are too large also create safety issues, such as getting caught on jagged edges or moving parts of machinery. If the glove is too loose, it could easily be pulled right off the hand, or even pull the wearers hand into moving machinery with it.

It is imperative to understand how to appropriately measure the hand in order to get a glove that fits correctly. If the glove fits properly, it will provide the worker with maximum protection without compromising dexterity.

To find the appropriate glove size, use a tape measure to measure around the knuckles of the dominant hand. The dominant hand will be the right if you are right-handed and left if you are left-handed.

The inch measurement of your hand should correspond directly to the numbered sizes of the glove. For example, if you measure your hand to be 8 inches, you would wear a size 8 glove. If your hand measures over 8 inches it is wise to choose the next size up to avoid hand fatigue or discomfort from a glove that is too small. Some gloves come in lettered sizes such as XS, S, M, L, and XL. These can easily convert to a numerical size for simple selection. See the table for numerical and lettered sizing relation.

Men's Sizes			Women's Sizes
	Inch	cm		Inch	cm
XS	7	18	XS	6	15
S	7 1/2-8	20	S	6 1/2	17
M	8 1/2-9	23	M	7	18
L	9 1/2-10	25	L	7 1/2	19
XL	10 1/2-11	28	XL	8	20

It is also important to decide the length you need for the glove. For maximum protection of the hand, wrist and forearm, measure the arm and refer to this guide for length measurement:

Taking the small amount of time to correctly measure and choose the appropriate glove size for employees is the only way to provide them with proper hand protection. Gloves that fit properly will help employees stay protected and avoid accidents in the workplace.

Please Note: The information above is intended for general information purposes only. It is not a substitute for review of the applicable government regulations and standards, and should not be construed as legal advice or opinion. Readers with specific questions should refer to the cited industry regulation or consult with an attorney.

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Tough Elk Hide Animal Handling Gloves with 23 Inch Kevlar Lined Gauntlet

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 07:03:00 GMT

Tough Elk Hide Animal Handling Gloves with 23 Inch Kevlar Lined Gauntlet
Buy Now: $136.95

Animal Gloves with 23" Gauntlet

These gloves offer great penetration resistance with good dexterity. Features a long Kevlar-lined elk hideextra-long sleeve & hand. A perfect glove for cats birds, and small mammals. 23'' Gauntlet Gloves cover above the elbows

(1) Pair
High Protection against Penetration for smaller animals
Available in 3 sizes (Sm, Med, Lg)

Guide to Glove Sizing

Men's Sizes			Women's Sizes
	Inch	cm		Inch	cm
XS	7	18	XS	6	15
S	7 1/2-8	20	S	6 1/2	17
M	8 1/2-9	23	M	7	18
L	9 1/2-10	25	L	7 1/2	19
XL	10 1/2-11	28	XL	8	20

It is also important to decide the length you need for the glove. For maximum protection of the hand, wrist and forearm, measure the arm and refer to this guide for length measurement:

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Tough Elk Hide Animal Handling Gloves with 18 Inch Kevlar Lined Gauntlet

Tue, 14 Feb 2012 06:49:00 GMT

Tough Elk Hide Animal Handling Gloves with 18 Inch Kevlar Lined Gauntlet
Buy Now: ~~$104.95~~ $85.28

Animal Gloves with 18" Gauntlet

These gloves offer great penetration resistance with good dexterity. Features a long Kevlar-lined elk hide sleeve & hand. A perfect glove for cats birds, and small mammals. 18'' Gauntlet Gloves cover forearms.

(1) Pair
High Protection against Penetration for smaller animals
Available in 3 sizes (Sm, Med, Lg)

Guide to Glove Sizing

Men's Sizes			Women's Sizes
	Inch	cm		Inch	cm
XS	7	18	XS	6	15
S	7 1/2-8	20	S	6 1/2	17
M	8 1/2-9	23	M	7	18
L	9 1/2-10	25	L	7 1/2	19
XL	10 1/2-11	28	XL	8	20

It is also important to decide the length you need for the glove. For maximum protection of the hand, wrist and forearm, measure the arm and refer to this guide for length measurement:

Visit Wildlife Traps, Nets, & Supplies to see additional products in this category.